Central to this is barbecue – by which the locals mainly mean pork, the definitive ingredient of southern cooking. At Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Que at 288 King Street, I round off a day of non-stop munching with tender pulled pork, slow-cooked for seven hours, and served with a cheese biscuit (which is nothing like a biscuit, and something like a scone), and collard greens, boiled with and flavoured by juicy lumps of bacon.